Americans Don’t Know Jack About Saving Energy

by Shana Fong on August 19, 2010
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In this illuminating post by Grist, we learn through a recent survey by The Earth Institute at Columbia University that Americans really don’t know jack about saving energy.

The largest group, nearly 20 percent, cited turning off lights as the best approach—an action that affects energy budgets relatively little. Very few cited buying decisions that experts say would cut U.S. energy consumption dramatically, such as more efficient cars (cited by only 2.8 percent), more efficient appliances (cited by 3.2 percent) or weatherizing homes (cited by 2.1 percent).

About 2.8 percent of those responding said they could save energy by sleeping or relaxing more, compared with 2.1 percent who said they could do so by insulating their homes (can you guess which is actually more effective?).

Jonathan Hiskes of Grist asserts:

The theme of the confusion was that participants tended to name steps that involved doing less or using less of things — turning off lights, turning down thermostats — rather than solutions that allow them to get the same amount of light and heat through less energy (via insulation and LED bulbs). That gets at a key difference between conservation and efficiency. The first means using less; the second means getting the same results through more intelligent use of resources. Both have a place, but it’s a problem if people understand all of efficiency as “sacrifice.” A home retrofit that cuts $500 off your heating bills for the year isn’t a sacrifice — it’s a financial and environmental win.

Eco-Cooling Tips for Your Home

by Shana Fong on August 18, 2010
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Here’s a piece written by Matt Golden and Jess Chamberlain for Sunset Magazine on best practices for keeping your house cool, the environmentally friendly way.

To keep a house cool, it’s really about either:

  • Keeping the sun out, or
  • Keeping the air cool/conditioned

In a retrofit situation, you have to first assess what your possibilities are:

  • Is there an attic we can insulate?
  • Are there eaves that are blocking some of the summer sun?
  • Is there an existing cooling system?

This really affects what the best approach to take is.

For an average house in a cooling climate with an attic, we’d recommend reducing the cooling load as much as possible and utilizing passive cooling:
1. Air sealing
2. Adequate attic insulation (min. R-38) to create a thermal barrier
3. Radiant barrier, if there are ducts in attic; on roof decking or in attic
4. Low-E glazing on windows
5. Whole-house fan

This route is very cost-effective from a long-term standpoint; i.e. you’re not paying to condition the air, you just pay for the equipment and installation.
The other option is to actively cool the house, in which case you’d invest in the fundamentals (such as air sealing and insulation), then install a high SEER-rated AC unit (min. 16-18 SEER rating) designed to ACCA’s manuals J, S, D & T. If air handling equipment is located in the attic we would recommend encapsulating the attic with air-impermeable spray foam and bringing the attic into the building envelope. This prevents hot attic air (150˚F+) from infiltrating the duct system.

Easy Cooling Tips:

  • Keep your AC unit in the shade
  • Keep the coils clean
  • Install high efficiency lighting (it keeps house cooler)
  • Turn plug loads off
  • Stop the sun before it gets into your house – use external shading, overhangs, and deciduous trees
  • Low-E coating on windows

Review: The Metlund Hot Water D’MAND System

by Adam Winter on August 17, 2010
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Cold water that goes down the drain while your customers are waiting for hot water to reach sinks and showerheads is like money flowing through their fingers. Here’s a relatively simple and affordable fix that can help most American homeowners save thousands of gallons of water every year – and take a slice off their energy bills to boot:

The Metlund Hot Water D’MAND System
http://www.gothotwater.com

  • A fast on-demand recirculation pump diverts ambient-temperature water in hot water pipes back to the water heater until hot water reaches the tap.
  • Water moves more rapidly from the hot water heater to the point of use, so your customers won’t have to wait long for a hot shower.
  • D’MAND pumps may be activated by wired-in buttons, motion sensors or wireless remotes.
  • Can use the existing cold water line as a return line, so special plumbing is not required for retrofits.
  • Less heat radiates from water pipes than with timed or continuous recirculation systems, potentially saving homeowners $50 to $300 a year in energy costs alone.
  • Can extend water heater life by enabling lower thermostat settings and reducing sedimentation in the bottom of the hot water tank.
  • Unlike timed or continuous recirculation systems, D’MAND does not void most tankless water heater warranties (check with the heater manufacturer to confirm)
  • D’MAND pumps are available in retrofit and new construction models.
  • Multiple pumps may be required in homes with complicated plumbing loops or additions.

According to Metlund’s own calculations, a typical household that saves 20 gallons of water a day by installing a D’MAND system would save anywhere from $151 to $242 a year in water, sewer and energy costs (depending on the type of hot water heater). For every year of its 15-year lifespan, the system would take a 7,300-gallon load off of local water and wastewater treatment systems, and prevent about a ton of carbon dioxide from entering the atmosphere.

Our take: On-demand recirculation pumps can be somewhat less convenient for homeowners than timed or continuous pumps, but Metlund’s system provides a highly effective and economical solution to water waste for homeowners who use it properly. Just be sure to educate your customers and set appropriate expectations before installing.

Note: Recurve does not endorse this or any other product. We encourage qualified Home Performance contractors to gain hands-on experience with products profiled in this newsletter before making their own assessments.

Furnace Oversizing Facts

by Trey Muffet on August 16, 2010
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Oversizing of mechanical equipment has been a standard of installation for many years, but thanks to a growing emphasis on building efficiency and home performance, oversizing is (hopefully) seeing the end of its days.

Common reasons for oversizing include failure to perform the proper load calculations; compensating for leaky ducts; or contractors protecting themselves from callbacks during extreme weather. Whatever the reason, oversizing is always a no no—even for high-efficiency equipment. But there are many misconceptions floating around about why oversizing is bad, and many people lack a clear understanding of what’s really at stake.

Recent studies show that furnaces with an Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) rating above 0.75 can be sized up to five times the load without a significant drop in efficiency. (Keep in mind, however, that the average load throughout the year is much lower than peak loads calculated by Manual J.) For example, let’s look at a 95% two-stage furnace. In second stage, the 60,000 BTU/h furnace will operate at steady state 95% efficiency when loads reach as low as 12,000 BTU/h. First-stage capacity of 39,000 BTU/h can operate efficiently for loads as low as 7,800 BTU/h.

Though efficiency may not be affected by oversizing, here are a few reasons why oversizing is still an issue:

1. Furnace prices increases with size, so installing the smallest possible unit will reduce the initial cost.
2. A furnace that is too large for the home will cycle on an off frequently, making the home less comfortable than an appropriately sized furnace.
3. Temperature swings from cycling may cause the homeowner to turn up the thermostat, which will result in higher energy bills.
4. Incorrect sizing can put stress on the system and shorten equipment life.

The bottom line: Sealing leaky ducts and using load calculations to choose the smallest possible furnace will assure maximum comfort and efficiency for your customers.

Home Performance 101 – How Well Do You Know Your Home?

by Daniel Bell on August 13, 2010
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The first in the Green Footprint series, Home Performance 101 focuses on your home as a system and presents ways to cost-effectively improve your home’s energy efficiency.

This video features one of Recurve’s Home Performance Specialists, Daniel Bell.

Green Footprint: Home Performance 101 from Foster City TV on Vimeo.

Up to $3500 in PG&E Rebates for Home Energy Upgrades

by Shana Fong on
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PG&E has just announced an exciting new rebate program for energy efficiency.

Here’s how it works:

  • The rebate amount is based on the software-modeled energy use reduction in your home as a result of a home energy upgrade
  • A 20% reduction earns $2000 in rebates. Each 5% reduction beyond that earns another $375, up to $3500
  • This is a limited pilot program

Here’s how you get the money:

  • Hire a home performance contractor (that’s us!) to perform an energy audit of your home
  • Work with your specialist to choose and implement cost-effective improvements to achieve the desired energy use reduction
  • Receive your rebate money as you enjoy your newly efficient, comfortable home!

Why Recurve?

  • We provide all necessary steps in one place (audit, remodel, retest) and we manage the application process for you
  • Our team is the most experienced in the Bay Area in comprehensive energy audits and home energy remodels
  • We’re Building Performance Institute (BPI) Accredited

Learn more here. Call (415) 728-9726 or click here to get started!

HOME STAR Legislation Idled Until Fall as Energy Bill Stalls in the Senate

by Shana Fong on August 6, 2010
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Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid announced on Tuesday that he will postpone a vote on the Clean Energy Jobs and Oil Company Accountability Act of 2010 until after the August recess. Reid told reporters that the scaled-down energy bill, which includes the proposed HOME STAR retrofit incentive and financing program, lacks enough votes to pass this week. Here’s how Politico summed up the situation:

It initially appeared that the slender offshore drilling package was a “must-pass” bill with political momentum, but it became evident during the past week that Reid lacked the votes within his own caucus to force the issue as the Republicans held firm against it.

Central to the offshore drilling reform bill was a title to eliminate the $75 million liability cap on damages oil companies must pay in the case of spills and other disasters. Sens. Mary Landrieu (D-La.) and Mark Begich (D-Alaska), both close allies of the oil industry, made clear they opposed that provision.

The deeply partisan atmosphere in the Senate ensured that there would be no opportunity to amend the bill with a scaled-down compromise liability title. Reid’s staff had made clear that if the bill were to come to the floor, it would be subject to a only straight up or down vote.

Supporters of the HOME STAR legislation are now focusing their efforts on a renewed push to get the law enacted in the fall when Congress is back in session.

Read the full Politico report here: www.politico.com/news/stories/0810/40597.html.

Tanks a Lot

by Shana Fong on August 4, 2010
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In the average American home, the water heater is the second or third largest energy user.

As long as you can get a hot shower in the morning, you probably don’t think too much about your water heater. But this mysterious appliance has a huge impact on the environment. Based on the California Energy Commission’s estimate of energy use in a typical household, water heating consumes about 31% of the energy used.

Energy Facts

  • Between 15%-30% of the energy your water heater uses goes to keeping a tank of water hot, just in case you need it.
  • Hot water heaters have adjustable thermostats. For every 10° you lower the water temperature, you can save 3%-5% of your water heating energy.
  • The heat that escapes through the sides of the tank is especially important if it’s in an unheated spot like a basement or back porch. A water heater blanket can save 5%-10% of the energy you’ve been using.

Simple Ways to Save Energy

  • Adjust the temperature setting on the water heater to 120°F. If you have a dishwasher that cannot heat water with a built-in booster heater, set the water heater to 140°F. Electric water heaters have two thermostats that should be set the same. Use a thermometer at the faucet to gauge water temperature. Don’t rely on the dial on the heater; they’re generally inaccurate. With electric water heaters, turn off power to the tank before adjusting the themostat.
  • Put your hand on your water heater. If it feels warm, install an insulating blanket around it. The colder the area the heater is in, the greater the heat loss. So if it’s in the garage in the winter, you’re going to lose a lot of heat.
  • Insulate the hot and cold water pipes leaving the tank, wherever they are accessible. Cover at least the first five feet (preferably ten) and keep the insulation three inches away from gas flues. Foam sleeves or adhesive-backed foam tape are available at hardware stores.
  • When replacing an old tank, make sure the new one is the correct size for your family and is energy efficient.
  • Electric water heaters should be turned off if you leave home for more than a few nights. It takes about four hours to reheat the water when you turn it back on.

Excerpted from 30 Simple Energy Things You Can Do To Save The Earth, by The EarthWorks Group.

ACI 2011 is coming to San Francisco

by Shana Fong on August 2, 2010
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Plans are starting to take shape for the next ACI National Home Performance Conference. This time, it will be held in Recurve’s hometown, San Francisco, from March 28 – April 1, 2011.

The 2010 conference in Austin was proof that the time has come for the home performance industry. Click this link to stay up to date on the conference so you don’t miss out on all the amazing educational and networking opportunities this event will offer.